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Kai Saam Yang
Called “Chicken Three Ways,” this dish is indeed perfect for pecking at while sipping beer or a dram of whiskey. “It’s something you just take a little bite of when you’re drinking booze,” Ricker says. When preparing the lemongrass, he strongly advises peeling off the fibrous outer part and using only the tender part of the stalk.
2 stalks lemongrass, woody outer
layers removed
1 shallot, medium size, peeled and diced
¼ cup roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
Finely slice into rounds the peeled lemongrass stalk, using only the most tender white part, and place in a bowl. Add the shallots and peanuts. Toss to mix and serve.
Miang Kham
Betel leaves can be found at Thai or Vietnamese grocery stores labeled as la lop. “They’re fresh, on the stem, and you just want to make sure they’re nice and bright,” Ricker says.
8 betel leaves
1 Tablespoon ginger, peeled and diced
1 Tablespoon shallots, peeled and diced
1 Tablespoon lime, peel on and diced
1 Tablespoon chopped Thai chilies
1 Tablespoon fried dried shrimp
1 Tablespoon roasted peanuts, chopped
1 Tablespoon toasted shredded coconut
1–2 Tablespoons miang kham sauce
(See recipe below.)
2 Tablespoons chopped cilantro, for garnish
Lime wedges, for garnish
Put betel leaves on plate. Mix ginger, shallots, lime, chilies, dried shrimp, peanuts, coconut, and miang kham sauce together in a small bowl. Spoon about 1 Tablespoon of mixture in center of each betel leaf. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and garnish with lime wedges.
Miang kham sauce
½ cup chopped ginger
½ cup chopped shallot
1 Tablespoon shrimp paste
4½ ounces palm sugar
1 teaspoon tamarind concentrate
¼ cup water
Mix all ingredients together. Unused portion can be refrigerated and kept for 1 week, or frozen for 1 month.
Tom Saep Muu
“A lot of the ingredients are not meant to be put in your mouth and chewed up,” Ricker warns of this recipe. Galangal, a woody rhizome that often gets confused with ginger, and the intensely spicy Thai chilies add flavor, but they aren’t meant to be eaten.
Ricker says the soup can be made with equivalent amounts of beef and beef broth. “This soup is served not to ‘a’ person, but a group of people,” Ricker says. “There’s no serving spoon or bowls, you just help yourself.”
1 Tablespoon cilantro root (or stems),
chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons fish sauce
12 ounces pork stock
4–6 each Thai chilies, whole, crushed
with flat of knife
4 slices galangal, cut into 1∕16"-thick rounds
6–8 slices of lemongrass, cut on the bias
¼"-thick
6–8 lime leaves, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon sugar
3 ounces pork shoulder, sliced thin, raw
½ cup pork offal (liver, tripe), poached
and sliced 1∕8" thick (optional)
1 ounce lime juice
1 Tablespoon cilantro leaves,
roughly chopped
1 Tablespoon green onions, thinly sliced
Put cilantro root, salt, and pepper in a mortar and mash with pestle. Transfer to a medium sauce pan and add the fish sauce, pork stock, chilies, galangal, lemongrass, lime leaves, and sugar: bring to a boil. Add pork, offal (if using), and lime juice, and stir to combine. Pour into a large soup bowl, top with cilantro leaves and green onions, and serve.
All recipes courtesy of Andy Ricker, chef/owner,
Whiskey Soda Lounge, Portland, Oregon
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Coppa-Wrapped Scallop Brochettes
with Smoked Paprika Oil, Apple-Celery Root Purée, and Grapefruit-Apple Slaw
Courtesy of Adam Stevenson,
Executive Chef, Earth & Ocean
Makes 4 servings
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For the Smoked Paprika Oil
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Gently heat the oil over very low heat (about 120˚F). Whisk in the paprika and salt, and let steep for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Set aside.
For the Apple-Celery Root Purée
2 Gala apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch dice (about 2 cups)
1½ medium celery roots, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 2 cups)
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 quart water
½ cup heavy cream
Kosher or sea salt
Place the apple, celery root, thyme, and water in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cook until the celery root is tender, about 8–10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the cream just to a simmer, and then remove from heat and set aside. When the celery root is done, remove the thyme sprig, and strain out and transfer the celery root and apple to a blender, reserving the cooking liquid. Add the hot cream to the blender and purée until smooth, adding the reserved cooking liquid a little at a time, being careful not to add too much—the consistency should be similar to applesauce. Add salt to taste. Keep warm.
For the Grapefruit-Apple Slaw
1 ruby red grapefruit, cut into suprêmes (segments with skin,
pith, membranes, and seeds removed), juice reserved
1 Granny Smith apple (unpeeled), cored and cut into matchsticks
½ celery root (leftover from the Apple-Celery Root Purée),
peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice from ¼ lemon
1 Tablespoon minced chives
1 Tablespoon minced tarragon
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, gently combine the grapefruit suprêmes and juice, apple, celery root, oil, lemon juice, chives, and tarragon. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
For the Scallops
16 large sea scallops
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
32 paper-thin slices of coppa (about 5–6 ounces)
4 (6-inch) wooden skewers (soaked in water for about an hour to avoid burning)
Extra virgin olive oil
Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Wrap each scallop with 2 slices of coppa and skewer the bundles, 4 scallops to a skewer. Heat oil in a sauté pan large enough to hold all of the skewers; alternatively, brush the skewers with oil and grill over an open flame. In either case, cook the scallops to medium doneness, turning once to allow each side to brown, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the scallops from the pan (or grill) and place on a paper towel. Plate immediately.
To assemble and serve
Make sure that the purée is hot. For each plate, spoon a smear of purée starting at one end of the plate and making a swoosh-like shape. Remove the skewer from the scallops and place them on top of the middle of the swoosh. Arrange the grapefruit slaw over the scallops and around the plate. Spoon the residual dressing from the slaw over and around the scallops. Finish the dish with a drizzle of smoked paprika oil and serve.
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Root Vegetable Torte
Courtesy of Chef Rod Butters, RauDZ Regional Table, Kelowna, B.C.
Serves 4–6
Non-stick cooking spray
2 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 large beets (red or golden), peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium rutabaga, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium turnips, peeled and thinly sliced
6 sunchokes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small celery root, peeled and thinly sliced
2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced
2 Russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 large shallots, thinly sliced
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, sage, or a
combination), chopped
1 cup heavy cream (or unsalted vegetable stock)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 ounces mild goat cheese (optional)
Preheat oven to 400˚F.
Step 1: Spray a deep, 8"-x-8" ovenproof casserole dish with non-stick cooking spray. Layer one variety of vegetable at a time in dish. Between each layer, sprinkle a little bit of garlic, shallots, Parmesan cheese (if using), herbs, cream (or an equal amount of vegetable stock), and seasonings. For the greatest visual effect, alternate different colors of vegetables until all have been used.
Step 2: Evenly distribute goat cheese (if using) on top layer. Cover loosely with tin foil or parchment paper and bake for 50–60 minutes, or until center of casserole is tender and hot when inserting a knife. Place a baking sheet on the rack beneath the casserole dish to catch any liquid that may escape while baking.
Step 3: Remove from oven and let stand 15–20 minutes before slicing.
Cook’s note: The torte can be baked, cooled, and refrigerated up to 1 day or frozen up to 3 weeks. To serve, bring to room temperature and bake at 425°F for 8 to 10 minutes until hot.
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Cassoulet of the Castoffs
Serves 4
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3-4 slices of bread (any type of bread—white, wheat, sourdough, rye, etc.—can be used)
4 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped carrot
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 pound leftover ham or turkey (or a mixture), cut into ¾-inch chunks
28-ounce can white beans, drained
14-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 cup chicken stock
salt and pepper
1 Tablespoon freshly chopped parsley
Preheat oven to 375˚F.
If the bread is not dry enough to crumble in a food processor, place the slices on an ungreased baking sheet, allowing a bit of room between pieces. Bake for approximately 5–10 minutes; about halfway through turn them over. Remove from oven and let cool.
Place the toasted slices in a food processor and pulse until they have a coarse texture, about the size of pebbles. Measure ¾ cup of breadcrumbs for use with this recipe, and save the rest for another use.
Heat 2 Tablespoons of olive oil in a medium-sized ovenproof pot. Add the carrots and onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or until softened. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute longer until fragrant. Mix in the herbs, meats, beans, and tomatoes. Pour in just enough chicken stock to cover (cassoulet should be moist but not soupy). Season to taste.
Sprinkle the breadcrumbs and parsley over the top and drizzle with remaining olive oil. Cook for 45 minutes or until bubbling and the crust is crisp.
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Bourbon-spiked Chocolate Ice Cream
Courtesy Jay Jones, head bartender and Chris Irving, Chef, at Pourhouse in Vancouver, B.C.
Makes approximately 1 quart
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4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
2 cups evaporated milk
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 Tablespoon flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 ounce bourbon, we used McCarthy’s Oregon Single Malt Whiskey
Preparation with Ice Cream Machine: In a heavy saucepan, combine chocolate and evaporated milk. Cook over medium heat, whisking until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. In a small bowl, combine sugar, flour, and salt. Gradually whisk dry ingredients into the melted chocolate mixture and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, whisking occasionally. Place egg yolks in a medium bowl, and whisk briefly. Slowly whisk in half of the hot chocolate mixture then transfer this mixture back to the remaining in saucepan. Cook about 5 minutes, until it starts to thicken. DO NOT BOIL. Remove from heat and stir in heavy cream, vanilla, and bourbon. Pour into bowl and chill over ice bath until cool, then chill completely in refrigerator. Pour into ice cream maker and freeze. Transfer to container and freeze at least 30 minutes before serving.
No Ice Cream Machine Preparation: Follow the ice cream recipe as above; except, rather than using an ice cream machine, pour the ice cream mixture into a wide, airtight container. Metal bowls work best as they speed up the freezing process—stainless steel works particularly well.
Place ice cream mixture in refrigerator for at least 1 hour to completely chill, then place the chilled ice cream mixture in the freezer for 30 minutes.
Remove the ice cream mixture from the freezer and scoop out into the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat the mixture on medium-high until smooth, about 2-3 minutes. Pour the mixture back into the metal bowl and place in the freezer for 40 minutes.
Repeat "40 minute freeze-then-beat cycle" 3 more times. After the last time, let the ice cream freeze for at least 2 hours before serving.
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